- Safari to the Pakaraimas
Chronicle reporter Neil Marks journeyed across the Pakaraima Mountains for five days, beginning March 28, and shares his diary. His story stretches from sobering reflections on the bewildering Patamuna culture to pure outback adventure and incomparable vistas…
I KEEP telling people that the word is spelt PA-TA-MU-NA, and not PA-TA-MO-NA. The correct spelling is important; it helps furnish a background to the people who bear the name.
Going around the “Great Walls of China”
As I’ve been told time and again, the Patamuna people, one of the last remaining nations of Amerindians in Guyana, can be described as People of the Heavens. When one contemplates the sheer size and magnificence of the Pakaraimas, it is easy to agree with that conclusion.
The Patamunas have, for centuries, inhabited the mountains and charted their survival through their inherent reverence to nature. But, as the years go by, their culture continues to be tainted by outside influences, as evidenced by the zinc-sheeted roofing one espies in almost all of the communities. The usual benab-style houses are not just a flight of fancy; the shape of the house is actually a symbol of fertility.
A young Roger Surujbally peers his way into the trees for a glimpse of a small bird that creates quite a racket in the rainforest.
I longed to see someone bearing the trademark body markings, as this represented ancient Patamuna culture, and indeed the culture of the other Amerindian tribes. Each mark, I’m told, has a special meaning. If a woman, for example, has tattooed whiskers, you knew without asking that she is the one to go to if you wanted a good strong drink, and I don’t mean unfermented drink. But it was not to be. I couldn’t see a single person bearing a body marking.
When we reached Paramakatoi, my gaze was intent, but my questioning was cautious. It was hinted that a Kanaima lived in the village. My curiosity subsided, though, when I was told that he was out of commission. This meant that I could not see him, after all. What a pity! I thought.
Roger gets down to pure fun at Orinduik Falls.
The last time I was in these parts, the traditional welcome, whereby everyone sips a beverage from the same container, was minimal. This time around, it was absent; I wouldn’t have minded, even if it did come in a plastic bowl, as opposed to the traditional dug-out calabash.
But in almost all of the communities, any attempt to talk with one of the local people sends a refreshing chill shooting down your spine, and it’s not because of the shy blushes and giggles of the women – they speak their own language!
It’s amazing to hear the Patamuna tongue. But how did I come to be in Patamuna country?
Sixth Pakaraima Mountain Safari
Frank Singh, managing director of Rainforest Tours, started early to plan for another safari to the Pakaraimas. The original plan was for February month end, but the Heavens thwarted those plans. The downpour was too much; too dangerous for drivers to maneuver their way around unfamiliar… and I mean very unfamiliar… territory.
Patamuna men work on clearing the road in the Pakariams that provides easy passage between Regions Eight and Nine.
Frank’s company specialises in outdoor adventures. In fact, he once guided tourists from the grand Kaieteur to Orinduik Falls, on foot. Those were the days when thoughts of a four-wheeler in these parts seemed but a distant reality.
Last year, the safari was aborted half-way along because of a multitude of problems that were brought on by the inclement weather. So, good planning was necessary this year.
As usual, Frank enlisted the help of the Ministry of Tourism, Industry and Commerce and the Ministry of Local Government and Regional Development.
Sponsors were soon to come on board. The Guyana Oil Company (that’s GUYOIL for you) sponsored all the fuel that required for the eight-day journey.
The Guyana Telephone and Telegraph Company (GT&T) also came on board, and they decided they would cover the promotions end of things.
Ucil Armstrong, who had never before dared to take on the interior of Guyana, caught the advertisement on TV and decided he would make the call to Frank. He found out that he had just the right type of vehicle – a four-wheeler with mud terrain tyres, which is an absolutely necessity.
His wife, Juanita, decided she would go along for the ride, and so too did two other members of the family. So they loaded up their supplies, included some light clothing for the heat of day, and some warm ones for the cold… and I do mean COLD… nights. They were ready for an adventure of a lifetime.
Taking off from Tuseneng, Senor Bell takes the lead on his ATV, while the other ATVS and the bikers follow.
We met up at midnight on March 28 at the GUYOIL service station on Regent Street in the city. Along came the Prime Minister, Mr Samuel Hinds and his wife, Yvonne, accompanied, of course, by the botanist, Yolanda Vasconcellos.
I had known that Mrs Hinds was an avid plant lover, but not the Prime Minister. Frank is always busy, so he asked me to “register” all those going on the safari. Among them were three guys – Osmond Mack, Andrew Lewis, and Jaime Hall. But there was a twist: They were on bikes!
They were along for a history-making ride, spanning some 529 miles!
We headed off first to the bauxite mining town of Linden. It was three in the morning when we arrived there, so there was nothing of note to really to see, except for the giant balls of smoke spewing out of the turbines.
Another two hours of travel and we arrived at Mabura Hill, at the operations of Demerara Timbers Limited. Thanks to some really big names on the trip, in the person of no less a person than the Prime Minister, breakfast was served.
It was there that I would have my first conversation on the trip with former Minister of Local Government, Mr Harripersaud Nokta. In the Pakaraimas, he is considered a ‘Godfather’. He began traveling to the Pakaraimas some 15 - 20 years ago, when he was a political activist with the People’s Progressive Party.
His presence in the Pakaraimas then was treated with disdain. Owing to carefully peddled propaganda, he was viewed as “a bad communist; a monster.”
From Mabura Hill, we journeyed to the Kurupukari Crossing, and then through the Iwokrama rainforest reserve to the North Rupununi village of Annai.
By dusk, we had arrived at Karasabai, also in Region Nine. The real adventure was about to begin. We tied our hammocks and dozed off in the chilly night.
In the morning, just after take-off, Andrew Lewis had his first fall and wanted to quit. A quick tip changed his mind. He now knows that a little speed would take care of “the fine gravel.”
“I have now developed significant confidence in the soft sand department,” he chuckles.
Andrew is an assistant manager with his family’s business in the city. An avid outdoors person, he has over the years sought every opportunity to be out of the city, even joining Young Apostles on the Move, an organisation whose mission is to spread Catholicism to the interior of Guyana.
His first ever road adventure was in the outskirts of Bartica, in Region Seven, but the terrain of the Pakaraimas pales into insignificance when compared.
“This trip makes Bartica look soft,” he confessed.
Andrew thanks the other experienced riders for helping him along.
For Jaime, ever since he saw the Pakaraimas from the air, he vowed to one day ride across it.
“I love a challenge,” he said, but was quick to admit that without skill and flexibility, “you could easily flip over.”
He is satisfied with having accomplished his heart’s desire. “The Pakaraimas makes me reflect on God’s creation,” he said.
For Osmond, cross-country adventure is his first love. “I’m not afraid of any terrain,” he said. He’s been riding for some seven years and has won several bikes, but the DR 650 is his favourite. He admits to having a liking for “heart-stopping” challenges.
A fitting response to any query of how one should describe the beauty of the Pakaraimas is the simple entreaty: “Just come!”
Once we got to the Echilibar crossing, which separates Regions Eight and Nine, everyone pitched in to help erect a sign in honour of Paul ‘Putagee’ Teixeira, the Guyana Forestry Commission (GFC) driver who died earlier this year. He’d served as the main driver/guide on previous safaris.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Monkey Mountain, and immediately headed off to the nearby waterfalls, where the activities ranged from soothing relaxation in natural Jacuzzis, to a stimulating massage from nature’s purest waters. That was Saturday evening.
With cool air emanating from the encircling mountains, everyone set up camp. Some chose to hit the sack under the constant gave of countless stars, while others were drawn, as if by magnet, to the Brazilian music blaring from the nearby bar.
The only reason we’d gotten this far was because of Minister Nokta’s ingenuity and the enterprising Patamunas.
From time immemorial, roads linking the villages of Regions Eight and Nine were non-existent. The villages of the Pakaraimas were landlocked, thereby forcing their inhabitants, who specialise in hunting, farming and fishing, to traverse the mountains, rivers and plains for days, sometimes weeks on end in search of a possible market for their produce. Both men and women had no choice but to carry their belongings in traditional warishees slung across their backs and tied to their foreheads. Thanks to Minister Nokta, they now have a road linking the two regions.
Seeing that they were the experts on the trails, he commissioned them to establish a link in what he terms “friendly territory.” Once it was feasible, funds were allocated through the Social Impact Amerlioration Programme (SIMAP) and work on the road commenced.
“When we built this road, we had no consultant, no engineer, no bulldozer. They built it with what we call ‘man-dozers’,” Nokta boasted.
From Monkey Mountain, we traveled over conglomerate rocks or the ‘diamond’ rocks. Even if we couldn’t see any of the diamond the miners seek out of the rocks, the thought of traveling across it lit up eyes and warmed hearts. The Pakaraimas is indeed a special place.
After traversing the highlands, we settled into a nice valley in the village of Tuseneng – an entire community of houses made of mud! It was a breathtaking sight to behold the stunning cone-shaped, thatch-roof mud houses that took on somewhat of a reddish-orange colour. Yes! This is just what I’d expected of an Amerindian village. And they all speak with the Patamuna tongue!
His presence in the Pakaraimas then was treated with disdain. Owing to carefully peddled propaganda, he was viewed as “a bad communist; a monster.”
From Mabura Hill, we journeyed to the Kurupukari Crossing, and then through the Iwokrama rainforest reserve to the North Rupununi village of Annai.
By dusk, we had arrived at Karasabai, also in Region Nine. The real adventure was about to begin. We tied our hammocks and dozed off in the chilly night.
In the morning, just after take-off, Andrew Lewis had his first fall and wanted to quit. A quick tip changed his mind. He now knows that a little speed would take care of “the fine gravel.”
“I have now developed significant confidence in the soft sand department,” he chuckles.
Andrew is an assistant manager with his family’s business in the city. An avid outdoors person, he has over the years sought every opportunity to be out of the city, even joining Young Apostles on the Move, an organisation whose mission is to spread Catholicism to the interior of Guyana.
His first ever road adventure was in the outskirts of Bartica, in Region Seven, but the terrain of the Pakaraimas pales into insignificance when compared.
“This trip makes Bartica look soft,” he confessed.
Andrew thanks the other experienced riders for helping him along.
For Jaime, ever since he saw the Pakaraimas from the air, he vowed to one day ride across it.
“I love a challenge,” he said, but was quick to admit that without skill and flexibility, “you could easily flip over.”
He is satisfied with having accomplished his heart’s desire. “The Pakaraimas makes me reflect on God’s creation,” he said.
For Osmond, cross-country adventure is his first love. “I’m not afraid of any terrain,” he said. He’s been riding for some seven years and has won several bikes, but the DR 650 is his favourite. He admits to having a liking for “heart-stopping” challenges.
A fitting response to any query of how one should describe the beauty of the Pakaraimas is the simple entreaty: “Just come!”
Once we got to the Echilibar crossing, which separates Regions Eight and Nine, everyone pitched in to help erect a sign in honour of Paul ‘Putagee’ Teixeira, the Guyana Forestry Commission (GFC) driver who died earlier this year. He’d served as the main driver/guide on previous safaris.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Monkey Mountain, and immediately headed off to the nearby waterfalls, where the activities ranged from soothing relaxation in natural Jacuzzis, to a stimulating massage from nature’s purest waters. That was Saturday evening.
With cool air emanating from the encircling mountains, everyone set up camp. Some chose to hit the sack under the constant gave of countless stars, while others were drawn, as if by magnet, to the Brazilian music blaring from the nearby bar.
The only reason we’d gotten this far was because of Minister Nokta’s ingenuity and the enterprising Patamunas.
From time immemorial, roads linking the villages of Regions Eight and Nine were non-existent. The villages of the Pakaraimas were landlocked, thereby forcing their inhabitants, who specialise in hunting, farming and fishing, to traverse the mountains, rivers and plains for days, sometimes weeks on end in search of a possible market for their produce. Both men and women had no choice but to carry their belongings in traditional warishees slung across their backs and tied to their foreheads. Thanks to Minister Nokta, they now have a road linking the two regions.
Seeing that they were the experts on the trails, he commissioned them to establish a link in what he terms “friendly territory.” Once it was feasible, funds were allocated through the Social Impact Amerlioration Programme (SIMAP) and work on the road commenced.
“When we built this road, we had no consultant, no engineer, no bulldozer. They built it with what we call ‘man-dozers’,” Nokta boasted.
From Monkey Mountain, we traveled over conglomerate rocks or the ‘diamond’ rocks. Even if we couldn’t see any of the diamond the miners seek out of the rocks, the thought of traveling across it lit up eyes and warmed hearts. The Pakaraimas is indeed a special place.
After traversing the highlands, we settled into a nice valley in the village of Tuseneng – an entire community of houses made of mud! It was a breathtaking sight to behold the stunning cone-shaped, thatch-roof mud houses that took on somewhat of a reddish-orange colour. Yes! This is just what I’d expected of an Amerindian village. And they all speak with the Patamuna tongue!
We left and ended up in one of many jungle patches along the way. It was bright daylight and Soca music was blaring as we blazed through the trail, so Frank failed to create any terror in us of the Kanaima tales of how the Patamuna people developed a sort of “super-man” mystique in which selected members had powers to transform themselves into whatever creature they wanted and kill their enemies. Try a bonfire at night and then you will perhaps manage to create an air of spookiness, Frank.
By 2pm, the sun had begun to go down behind the mountains, and we arrived at Kato, which qualifies itself as the most beautiful village that we passed. Thatch-roofed benabs set against a backdrop of towering mountains seemingly covered with manicured lawns was the perfect scene for a postcard.
We ended up at the nearby waterfalls for a refreshing swim, but had to quickly dash for some warm clothing.
Monday morning, we headed out again to Kurukubaru, where Minister Prashad was presented with an impressive headdress made of the beak of a Toucan. But then again, he was previously given a garland made of bora and ochro.
At midday Monday, we arrived at Orinduik Falls. Our mission was complete!
Five days across 529 miles, sneaking on wheels across the treacherous ‘Great Walls of China’, the refreshing waterfall baths, the magnificent views, the great company, all made for a safari that was indeed, beautiful.
Oh! Turns out that the Prime Minister was better at spotting plants than his wife. No offence, Mrs Hinds.
For Ucil, his first trip across the Pakaraimas has left him looking for work. He’d heard of the magnificent Pakaraima mountains only from singing songs in school as a young boy, but nothing could have prepared him for the adventure he experienced and the beauty he beheld.
“The Pakaraimas is wonderful, wonderful; very, very wonderful,” he said.
His wife Juanita was mesmerized by “how big Guyana really is,” and she is prepared to do it again. “It’s really thrilling; it’s really, really good,” she said, obviously at a loss for words.
When the safari was over, the Minister of Tourism was sure that it had to be held more than once a year and has already undertaken to promote it at all the major travel and trade shows Guyana participates in so as to attract overseas participation.
The Executive Director of the Guyana Tourism Authority sums it all up thus: “This is where people should come and see the real beauty of Guyana.”
By 2pm, the sun had begun to go down behind the mountains, and we arrived at Kato, which qualifies itself as the most beautiful village that we passed. Thatch-roofed benabs set against a backdrop of towering mountains seemingly covered with manicured lawns was the perfect scene for a postcard.
We ended up at the nearby waterfalls for a refreshing swim, but had to quickly dash for some warm clothing.
Monday morning, we headed out again to Kurukubaru, where Minister Prashad was presented with an impressive headdress made of the beak of a Toucan. But then again, he was previously given a garland made of bora and ochro.
At midday Monday, we arrived at Orinduik Falls. Our mission was complete!
Five days across 529 miles, sneaking on wheels across the treacherous ‘Great Walls of China’, the refreshing waterfall baths, the magnificent views, the great company, all made for a safari that was indeed, beautiful.
Oh! Turns out that the Prime Minister was better at spotting plants than his wife. No offence, Mrs Hinds.
For Ucil, his first trip across the Pakaraimas has left him looking for work. He’d heard of the magnificent Pakaraima mountains only from singing songs in school as a young boy, but nothing could have prepared him for the adventure he experienced and the beauty he beheld.
“The Pakaraimas is wonderful, wonderful; very, very wonderful,” he said.
His wife Juanita was mesmerized by “how big Guyana really is,” and she is prepared to do it again. “It’s really thrilling; it’s really, really good,” she said, obviously at a loss for words.
When the safari was over, the Minister of Tourism was sure that it had to be held more than once a year and has already undertaken to promote it at all the major travel and trade shows Guyana participates in so as to attract overseas participation.
The Executive Director of the Guyana Tourism Authority sums it all up thus: “This is where people should come and see the real beauty of Guyana.”
